Showing posts with label africa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label africa. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

A bit of brazen self-promotion (well it is my birthday!)

First for UNICEF, then for Aldeia Nova, Eran has been in and out of Angola since 2001. I joined him in 2004 and lived and worked with him there for 2 1/2 years. If we had any agenda at all in the writing of this book, it was to avoid a dry re-telling of Angola's troubled history, or to over-indulge in a depiction of our own experiences there, or to dwell on the poverty and calamities that excite CNN and Western news sources. What we hoped to do instead was convey something of the lives of Angolans and the life of Angola which, though shaped of course by its history and calamities, exist with a fullness, richness and vitality that neither of these things can ever fully describe or do justice to.



"After the Portuguese’ departure, and even after all the years of civil war, an immovable legacy remained inside the buildings and within the architecture and the aesthetic shapes of towns, cities and villages.

For every living Portuguese body that fled before the civil war, and for every Angolan body that fled during it, there remains a stone-dry shell of a house, parched and indignant, with a longevity the flesh and breath that the colonizers could never compete with, even though, between them and the Angolans, it was they who designed and built them.

Defiant, the gravestones around the houses and churches marking the bodies that never made it out of the country, seem as if they are clinging to what they once had but have lost, settling for the little piece of almost-eternity they have managed to hold onto.

In the eerie quiet, in the rustle of draughts and shifting shadows of the empty or re-occupied shells of the houses, it is almost as if, through the memories - or spirits - contained within them, those buildings are speaking for themselves."





"A few years before the ubiquitous transition to digital photography took place, four baby girls were born, only weeks apart, in a place called Cela, a district which, although it has its own centre, incorporates Wako-Kungo. The world these babies were born into would have been bullet-ridden and war-weary, with villages cut off and soldiers gradually returning to their homes from the bush. These four girls were born beneath a heavy sky. During the rainy season, the trees in the forests around their homes bowed and swayed beneath the weight of it.

All through the war’s finale storms raged: thunderous rain showers punished the earth, launching electric staffs into the ground and exploding the mud into dust, while the valleys around them defiantly blazed with gunfire.

But then summer broke through the rains and when the last drops settled in the crevices of large leaves and burst over the banks of rivers, flooding the land on both sides, and the lightening withdrew, and the heavy clouds parted letting thin, breathy, blue skies through, the war finally died. Somewhere overhead, through these deceptively serene skies, an aeroplane that was destined never to land wrote its goodbye message in its vapour trail, and when it crashed it took the war with it."




(Waterstones, Blackwell's, Amazon and Sylph Editions)

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Angola in art

I haven’t seen Angola represented in a lot of art or photography. Tourist visas have only been being issued in the country for around a year, so there have been few foreign photographers to take pictures or make paintings, and few foreign tourists to buy them. There is, of course, artwork made in the villages, especially by teenagers, but these rarely leave the villages and don’t reach a wider audience, of either Angolans or foreigners.



There is one craft market in Luanda, largely populated by traders from Congo. Many speak mainly French, and although a lot of their art is interesting, at the end of the day it’s Congolese, not Angolan.



Bumping into DaSilva's work has been like finding a missing link, because although the artist is Namibian-born his parents are Angolan, and this really shows – this is the Angola I know – this is the way I imagine Angola would explode on a canvas. Perhaps I have no right to judge, since I am only a visitor to the country – however long the stay was – and I’d love for more Angolans to see this work and find out what they think.









It might be presumptuous of me, but I think they’d like it.





Turbo Tagger

Sunday, April 08, 2007

Little Cheeks, Little Teeth - everything around me is... Little!

They were exhausting, but they transformed the atmosphere in the hotel so significantly that if they were staying on this project with us in Wako-Kungo instead of in Luanda I think things could have been very different.

a piece of paradise

They stayed for two nights – it felt like at least a week! The Luanda manager’s five daughters, including two sets of twins (!!) – Shy, Ronnie, Gal, Yuval and Aviv – and his friend’s two daughters – Amit and Ori – came to visit Wako-Kungo for the weekend.

Yuval & Aviv (2nd set of twins!) with Pandora

Gal & Ronnie (twins!)

They wreaked havoc, swung from door-handles, picked up the cat, broke things, carried the cat, put down the cat, ate all my sweets, picked up the cat again – drove us to drink on both nights – but left the hotel a warmer, softer, calmer place to be.

Eran & Yuval

Yuval & Gal with Pandora

With a community of families, instead of a community of bloated egos, this could have been a very different experience: effects which would have transformed not just our living environment, but the project as a whole.

I can remember when Yosi’s 10-year-old son Nevo stayed for part of the summer in 2004. He cracked the house apart, injected energy, made everything feel different. A world cannot be whole until it is filled with people of all ages: everyone is necessary – no-one is more important than anyone else – though all these over-stuffed, inflated egos – all inhabiting the same place in time – will tell you otherwise – they’ll lecture, boast and rant at you about their uniquely indispensable position in the world.

Ronnie, Pandora, Yuval, Shy, Eran & Gal

Having said that, 7 girls all between the ages of 2 and 10, in one intensive go was knackering! Eran, me, Liad and Noa survived the only respectable way: by drinking ourselves into a stupor both nights! They were fun to have around, but I was rapidly transforming into Miss Hannigan by the end of the weekend…









Turbo Tagger

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Green Mambas: Innocent Until Proven Guilty!

When we were still living in the “Casa Branca”, before we moved into the hotel, someone saw a snake drop from a tree into the engine of one of the project’s Landrovers. It looked like a green mamba (the deadliest snake in Africa). One of the guards saw it too.

Eran asked him: “Is it dangerous?”
“No, it’s not dangerous”, the guard replied.
“…but if it bites you?”
“Oh, if it bites you then you die!”








Turbo Tagger

Sunday, April 01, 2007

Arriving at Night: Wako-Kungo: Early May 2004

We arrive in darkness. A twelve hour journey across the barren coastal strip, punctuated by the baobab with their swinging mice, up until Sumbe, when greys and beiges slide into palm-lined beaches, but without any smooth blues: instead the ocean, a deep black, oily void, drops dramatically down from the beach: consuming, inhospitable, disturbing waters.



The road takes a sharp inland route from Sumbe, through dense, humid jungle-forests, patterned with lightening-white tree-trunks and thickly woven canopies. At once, through a fracture in the green, a crashing waterfall opens a wider window upon an island settled in the thick currents of a gluey river, upon which people are living on floating grass. We stop here, by the cascades, for the first time – and stop there on all proceeding trips that follow, to listen to violent water and filter gold through our fingers.





After the waterfalls, the frost-edged bushes of coffee-plantations line the road for a mile or so, fringing the driveways of old Portuguese coffee fanzendas: a promising symbol of Che Guevara’s failure to destroy all of Angola’s plantations.



Over a tumultuous curve in what was once a road – now obliterated, and filled with ferocious mud waves – the car tips into the Kwanza-Sul valley: jurassic, volcanic, expansive and breathtaking: I can see pterodactyls cut through clouds and dive into nests tucked into crevices of the almighty boulders that pepper the wrinkled green landscape.



A journey that began at seven in the morning in Luanda, is over by nine in Wako-Kungo, our new home. My first sights of Wako are in darkness: a high street lit only recently – for the first time in thirty years – by mains electricity: although it’s only ever sporadically lit from then on. We drive through the town and up to the top of it – where the road ends and the park before the white church begins, marking the foot of the mountain, where another, smaller, church overlooks the town: an abandoned guard-post of spirits.



We take a sharp right before the park and drive over the holey, gravel and mud road, and before the road meets a fork that either continues, or doubles back on itself, we pull into the driveway on the right of a white house, and are met on the doorstep by Harel, shining a torch into the Landrover, so I can’t really see him yet, and who was to be one of only four other people about to become our strange surrogate family.



In that first month there was only five of us: Harel, who was the entire Logistics Department, Yosi, who was the entire Construction Department (ABH), Danny, the entire Bullshit Department, Eran, the entire Social Department, and me, the entire Female Department! I became too accustomed to the small numbers – I adapted and took for granted too quickly, and grew too used to, feeling familiar and at home, with these people, in each of our spaces. With the exception of Danny, I felt like it was home – our home – but I was wrong, and it was very quickly taken away, very quickly filled with more people; people who were not part of my idea of what this new home was for us, and too quickly the people who had made up that ideal were pushed out. And I don’t think, in all the proceeding three years, I ever really got over this – this usurpation – and the indifference and invisibility that followed.







Turbo Tagger